The Kailh switches with click bar are more tactile, but they click also on the rebound, as as loud (or louder) than the first click - which should disqualify them as clicky switches IMHO. Some clone switches with sliding collar (such as Gateron Blue) are more tactile on press, but that means that they are also more tactile on the way up. It should be tactile enough on a press, and provide the least bump on the way up. If you go too light you risk the keys sticking and not bottoming up.
If you are looking for a clicky switch that is also light try the original cherry mx blues, then if they still feel top heavy swap the springs for a lighter model, even though they are already pretty light.
Wonderin’ ‘bout those switches of light, yeah.Let’s find out what the p. speed bronzes and whites have click bars, the others have click jackets. I think that the ideal switch to use would be a genuine Cherry MX Blue switch that is vintage and worn-in. You can support this channel on Patreon Link below Click clack I was taken aback. The use of a sliding collar also provides hysteresis. The traditional sliding collar mechanism has a small bump, but the tactility is sharper because the collar is accelerated to the bottom faster than you press the key. One thing to note is that with a large tactile bump and a very light spring, the switch may not return properly: this has been observed when trying 35g springs in Cherry MX Clear. There could also be noise from when the switch resets after a tactile bump. Tactile MX switches traditionally have tactility as a bump in the travel that is overcome, and this bump will be felt both on the way down and on the way up (if your finger is still on the key). On Cherry MX-style switches, the weaker the main spring, the more significant the tactile feel will be.
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